Krakow is fast becoming one of the more popular places to visit in Eastern Europe. In hearing this, one expects to find the usual tourist stop markers – museums, Americanized restaurants, cheap souvenirs, and a multitude of signs in English. While Krakow has invested in the typical horse and carriage rides around the Old Town, the lack of classic touristy stops are noticeably, and thankfully, absent. While you see many more tourists in Krakow than less famed parts of Poland, the crowd is a mixture of world-travelers. Interestingly, one notices that the carriage rides, KFCs, and McDonalds are filled, not by tourists, but by the Polish! While it is refreshing to have found a city so unblemished by the tourist industry, it is interesting to see how this affects sightseeing.
Krakow is known for its attractive buildings, left untouched by the Second World War. But this does not mean that the city was not touched by the Nazi’s reign of terror. Krakow was the home of Oskar Schindler, lately made famous by Spielberg’s 1993 film Schindler’s List. Spielberg, in interest of accuracy, filmed the movie at the Schindler’s factory located near the Jewish Ghetto in Krakow. While Schindler’s widespread fame brings people to the site, so does the fame of the movie itself. There are two tours of this area available for the tourist – a Jewish Ghetto tour and a movie-based tour. The movie tour is conducted by a tour guide who carries a portable movie screen, pointing out the historical buildings found in the movie. For those who do not wish to pay the thirty dollars for the tour, striking out on one’s own is not as easy, for there is a lack of signs, directions, and historical plaques detailing the sights and how to get there. Once the location has been found, some find the lack of catering to tourists disappointing. For example, Krakow is beginning the slow process of making Oskar Schindler’s Emalia Factory into a museum that will spread knowledge of Schindler’s deeds throughout the world. But as of January 2008, the factory is more run down than in Spielberg’s film. The front of the building is barricaded, and the rooms seen from the street are somewhat trashed, filled with the inevitable droppings of construction workers. The factory is marked only by the original sign “Fabryka Oskara Schindlera – Emalia” and a plaque donated by the Jewish Community Council of Krakow and the Students and Faculty of Albion College (Michigan, USA). While it is disappointing that the interior of the factory can’t be visited, the outside remains in its original condition, marked only by time.
The signs erected to aid tourists were not entirely helpful. After walking for almost an hour, it still was not apparent to us where the Jewish Ghetto or the former concentration camp was located. But, this lack of information for pilgrims may not be entirely bad. It gives us all the opportunity to find more unchartered territory and have a more realistic experience, yet it may serve to make tourists realize what a gem a restored landmark can be. Nevertheless, that guided tour just might have been well worth the money and time invested!
After searching for the elusive World War II sights, it was nice to return to those artistic buildings, brightly colored and restored, so prominent in Krakow’s Old Town. A long rectangular building with arched doorways, dramatically lit during the night, marks the center of the Old Town. Stepping inside, my eyes were captured by the multitude of wooden stalls lining both sides and center aisle of the building. Elaborately decorated playing card boxes, medieval knight gear for war, dangling wooden wind chimes, and lovely Baltic amber jewelry filled the stalls. This was quite the place to find gifts for those left at home – especially with the exchange rate between U.S. and Polish currency.
Leaving the marketplace and making our way down the streets filled with such architectural beauty, we passed the rows of shops selling everything from Puma gear to postcards, and through the city wall. On our right, Wawel Castle, towering over the town, beckoned to us. Being winter, we could not thrill in the terror of the castle’s resident dragon whose cave swelled with smoke and, when irritated, breathed fire upon the passerby. Local children, made aware of him by night-time stories, knew not to fear his dormant and hibernating form in winter, but the summer would bring terrifying adventure to all.
So, passing the quiescent cave, we hiked to the top of Wawel Hill and entered through those great castle gates. Soaring above us emerged a gorgeous cathedral, engulfed among a luscious courtyard, and walls overgrown by teeming limbs of ivy. The Castle, once the magnificent home of the monarchs of Poland, is said to be the cultural capital of the Polish state. In truth, in reading its history, the fate of the castle is tied very tightly to the fate of the Polish people. The castle had its beginning in the mid eleventh century; for many years each succeeding ruler added new wings or remodeled sections of the castle that had been destroyed by fire. Thus, the edifice has remnants of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles. The Castle was first taken over by the Swedes in the early 1700s, when yet another fire occurred that greatly depleted the castle’s brilliance. Then Poland lost its independence to Austria, and the Austrians overtook the Castle, making a large portion of the grounds into military barracks for the Austrian military. Returned to the Poles in 1911, the Castle did not stay Polish for long. World War II brought Nazis to Wawel Hill, making the Castle into a residence for Nazi general Hans Frank. After World War II, the Soviets, of course, had a long sojourn in Poland, but finally, the Castle has been returned and much restored by Polish hands[1].
Not too far from the Castle and right across the street from the magnificent green-domed theater lies a fantastic Polish restaurant that is a must visit! The restaurant is composed of two parts, an upstairs and a downstairs restaurant. The upstairs, decorated with oak tables and split log benches, homemade salt and pepper shakers, and animal horns, is an order-at-the-counter and pick-up-your-food-as-your-number-is-called style joint. Typical Polish dishes such as pierogis are served on bread trenchers with Tyskie from the keg. Tables are large enough to seat a couple parties, so you find yourself enjoying your meal with a mix of locals and tourists, young and old. The downstairs atmosphere is of a totally different mold. Decorated with antiques, heavy pink drapery, dollies, and silver, the dining room looks much like an 1800’s salon of the upper class. Your order is served on a silver platter while you listen to the incredibly talented pianist, playing a charming mix of American show tunes and European classics. I was completely bewitched and pleased by the ambiance of the downstairs dining room, especially as its prices are the same as its upstairs counterpart. We thoroughly enjoyed both areas!
When we were not eating, we walked the town, exploring Krakow and coming up with some wonderful finds! Our second day out, all day, students of all ages throughout every nook and cranny in Krakow had been asking for donations for a children’s charity. They came down the streets in droves, and if you did not sport the red heart sticker, every child, teen, and twenty-something would come your way. Krakow was holding a benefit concert in Rynek Glowny to raise money for this charity, and the children’s sidewalk campaign not only raised money for the foundation, but also brought an audience to the concert. It seemed that all the citizens of Krakow were banding together for a common goal. Walking down the street, three times more crowded than yesterday (a Saturday!), it could be seen that everyone had at least one heart-shaped sticker decorating his outfit. The afternoon drew to a close with the town gathering to hear the comedians and musicians and, later, to see the fireworks. The comedians set these people to chuckling, and their good natured smiles, which we’d witnessed many times during the weekend in asking for directions, which food to try, or simply how to buy a tram ticket, represented Poland as a land of congenial people, eager to lend a hand or help each other. A country where lovely squares stand and, filled with the proud jewels of ancient eras and having passed the test of time, meet conveniences such as free and easily accessibly wireless internet and three-tiered gallerias, the jewels of today’s society - Krakow is a shining star not to be missed!
[1] Historical information on Wawel Hill and Wawel Castle has been gleaned from the following websites: http://www.wawel.krakow.pl/en/index.php?op=3 and http://www.wawel.krakow.pl/en/druk.php?op=4
*** I received a response to this posting from the owner of a website regarding Krakow. It has quite alot of interesting historical info about the Jewish section of Krakow. I wish I'd known about it during my visit there! Feel free to visit the site at: www.jewishkrakow.net ***
Krakow is known for its attractive buildings, left untouched by the Second World War. But this does not mean that the city was not touched by the Nazi’s reign of terror. Krakow was the home of Oskar Schindler, lately made famous by Spielberg’s 1993 film Schindler’s List. Spielberg, in interest of accuracy, filmed the movie at the Schindler’s factory located near the Jewish Ghetto in Krakow. While Schindler’s widespread fame brings people to the site, so does the fame of the movie itself. There are two tours of this area available for the tourist – a Jewish Ghetto tour and a movie-based tour. The movie tour is conducted by a tour guide who carries a portable movie screen, pointing out the historical buildings found in the movie. For those who do not wish to pay the thirty dollars for the tour, striking out on one’s own is not as easy, for there is a lack of signs, directions, and historical plaques detailing the sights and how to get there. Once the location has been found, some find the lack of catering to tourists disappointing. For example, Krakow is beginning the slow process of making Oskar Schindler’s Emalia Factory into a museum that will spread knowledge of Schindler’s deeds throughout the world. But as of January 2008, the factory is more run down than in Spielberg’s film. The front of the building is barricaded, and the rooms seen from the street are somewhat trashed, filled with the inevitable droppings of construction workers. The factory is marked only by the original sign “Fabryka Oskara Schindlera – Emalia” and a plaque donated by the Jewish Community Council of Krakow and the Students and Faculty of Albion College (Michigan, USA). While it is disappointing that the interior of the factory can’t be visited, the outside remains in its original condition, marked only by time.
The signs erected to aid tourists were not entirely helpful. After walking for almost an hour, it still was not apparent to us where the Jewish Ghetto or the former concentration camp was located. But, this lack of information for pilgrims may not be entirely bad. It gives us all the opportunity to find more unchartered territory and have a more realistic experience, yet it may serve to make tourists realize what a gem a restored landmark can be. Nevertheless, that guided tour just might have been well worth the money and time invested!
After searching for the elusive World War II sights, it was nice to return to those artistic buildings, brightly colored and restored, so prominent in Krakow’s Old Town. A long rectangular building with arched doorways, dramatically lit during the night, marks the center of the Old Town. Stepping inside, my eyes were captured by the multitude of wooden stalls lining both sides and center aisle of the building. Elaborately decorated playing card boxes, medieval knight gear for war, dangling wooden wind chimes, and lovely Baltic amber jewelry filled the stalls. This was quite the place to find gifts for those left at home – especially with the exchange rate between U.S. and Polish currency.
Leaving the marketplace and making our way down the streets filled with such architectural beauty, we passed the rows of shops selling everything from Puma gear to postcards, and through the city wall. On our right, Wawel Castle, towering over the town, beckoned to us. Being winter, we could not thrill in the terror of the castle’s resident dragon whose cave swelled with smoke and, when irritated, breathed fire upon the passerby. Local children, made aware of him by night-time stories, knew not to fear his dormant and hibernating form in winter, but the summer would bring terrifying adventure to all.
So, passing the quiescent cave, we hiked to the top of Wawel Hill and entered through those great castle gates. Soaring above us emerged a gorgeous cathedral, engulfed among a luscious courtyard, and walls overgrown by teeming limbs of ivy. The Castle, once the magnificent home of the monarchs of Poland, is said to be the cultural capital of the Polish state. In truth, in reading its history, the fate of the castle is tied very tightly to the fate of the Polish people. The castle had its beginning in the mid eleventh century; for many years each succeeding ruler added new wings or remodeled sections of the castle that had been destroyed by fire. Thus, the edifice has remnants of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles. The Castle was first taken over by the Swedes in the early 1700s, when yet another fire occurred that greatly depleted the castle’s brilliance. Then Poland lost its independence to Austria, and the Austrians overtook the Castle, making a large portion of the grounds into military barracks for the Austrian military. Returned to the Poles in 1911, the Castle did not stay Polish for long. World War II brought Nazis to Wawel Hill, making the Castle into a residence for Nazi general Hans Frank. After World War II, the Soviets, of course, had a long sojourn in Poland, but finally, the Castle has been returned and much restored by Polish hands[1].
Not too far from the Castle and right across the street from the magnificent green-domed theater lies a fantastic Polish restaurant that is a must visit! The restaurant is composed of two parts, an upstairs and a downstairs restaurant. The upstairs, decorated with oak tables and split log benches, homemade salt and pepper shakers, and animal horns, is an order-at-the-counter and pick-up-your-food-as-your-number-is-called style joint. Typical Polish dishes such as pierogis are served on bread trenchers with Tyskie from the keg. Tables are large enough to seat a couple parties, so you find yourself enjoying your meal with a mix of locals and tourists, young and old. The downstairs atmosphere is of a totally different mold. Decorated with antiques, heavy pink drapery, dollies, and silver, the dining room looks much like an 1800’s salon of the upper class. Your order is served on a silver platter while you listen to the incredibly talented pianist, playing a charming mix of American show tunes and European classics. I was completely bewitched and pleased by the ambiance of the downstairs dining room, especially as its prices are the same as its upstairs counterpart. We thoroughly enjoyed both areas!
When we were not eating, we walked the town, exploring Krakow and coming up with some wonderful finds! Our second day out, all day, students of all ages throughout every nook and cranny in Krakow had been asking for donations for a children’s charity. They came down the streets in droves, and if you did not sport the red heart sticker, every child, teen, and twenty-something would come your way. Krakow was holding a benefit concert in Rynek Glowny to raise money for this charity, and the children’s sidewalk campaign not only raised money for the foundation, but also brought an audience to the concert. It seemed that all the citizens of Krakow were banding together for a common goal. Walking down the street, three times more crowded than yesterday (a Saturday!), it could be seen that everyone had at least one heart-shaped sticker decorating his outfit. The afternoon drew to a close with the town gathering to hear the comedians and musicians and, later, to see the fireworks. The comedians set these people to chuckling, and their good natured smiles, which we’d witnessed many times during the weekend in asking for directions, which food to try, or simply how to buy a tram ticket, represented Poland as a land of congenial people, eager to lend a hand or help each other. A country where lovely squares stand and, filled with the proud jewels of ancient eras and having passed the test of time, meet conveniences such as free and easily accessibly wireless internet and three-tiered gallerias, the jewels of today’s society - Krakow is a shining star not to be missed!
[1] Historical information on Wawel Hill and Wawel Castle has been gleaned from the following websites: http://www.wawel.krakow.pl/en/index.php?op=3 and http://www.wawel.krakow.pl/en/druk.php?op=4
*** I received a response to this posting from the owner of a website regarding Krakow. It has quite alot of interesting historical info about the Jewish section of Krakow. I wish I'd known about it during my visit there! Feel free to visit the site at: www.jewishkrakow.net ***
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