Rolling hills in shades of moss and lime, chocolate and olive reminded me of California as I drove our little Fiat 500 from Lorgues to Aix en Provence. The toll roads, perfectly maintained, had artisan signs announcing the upcoming town with murals depicting the craft of the town.
Aix en Provence, one of the larger cities of the Provence region, caters to tourists, collegiates, and locals alike. Everyone gathers around the city’s many fountains to sip a petite café and soak in the sunshine. In fact, for many years in the city’s promenade, you could only find a café on the sunny side of the street.
Hat shops, bread shops, clothing boutiques – Mama and I stopped by them all for a peek at what’s inside. We munched on a bacon roll and apricot roll by the Hotel de Ville and listened to the travelling players, an organist, saxophonist, and a bass cello.
The architecture reminded me of New Orleans, French style of course –stucco, balconies, ornate ironwork, and open windows with colorful shutters. Tall, majestic trees, devoid of their ornamentation, peeling and knotted, towered over the winding streets, leaving behind a powerful shadow. The tinkle of water was never far away.
Aix en Provence is a larger city, and with that comes public transportation, parking garages, overpasses, and all aspects of the daily grind. The quaint charm of the Provincial town is more pleasing; however, the streets of shops winding toward squares with chiming bells and shimmering fountains and un petite café make up for the metropolis feel.
As Aix seemed a bit more touristy than we’d envisioned for dinner, Mama and I decided to drive homeward and watch for small towns along the way. As we wound through the countryside on our way to Lourges, we saw a sign for a restaurant off the beaten path.
Horses pranced behind the paddock, water tinkled from the fountain, soft yellow light twinkled in the lamp posts, and the rock building hid a warm interior, decorated with paintings of Provence, and American Indian regalia.
The food was delicious, although not mouthwatering like La Table De Pôl. We ordered another rosé, a little tasteless, but a thirst quencher. Crostinis with thyme, rosemary, and crushed olives, along with prosciutto, a bed of greens, sweet pickles, and fresh rolls served as our appetizer. Mama’s deliciously creamy bacon and potato soufflé, crusted with herbs and melted cheese arrived shortly, along with my green beans, spiced pomme frittes, and sautéed veal. Coffee, assorted French cheeses sprinkled with turmeric, and fried profiteroles filled with ice cream and blanketed with chocolate, sprinkles, whipped cream, topped with a green sparkler, ended the meal on a sweet note.
Restaurant Reviewed:
L'Auberge de Pardigon
Route de Carcés
83570 Entrecasteaux
email: pardigon@free.fr
http://pardigon.skyrock.com
Tél/fax: 04.94.73.83.93
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