Hungry in Provence



We had breakfasted early, traveling from Lorgues to Antibes to Monaco, missing local lunch time by an hour or so.  After tootling around, getting stuck on one-way roads and backing our way out, we decided our time in Monaco must come to an end, as we were hungry and the only restaurant open during off hours was an all-nighter bar – not our idea of a gourmet dining experience.  So, we headed out on the freeway, stopping for Lays Roasted Chicken and Thyme potato chips and French fig bars to tide our hunger. 

A sign for a Hyper U lured us off the highway and into a large store that can only be classified as a mix between a very high class Walmart and a Fresh Market.  It had cute clothes, gorgeous plants, books, and a grand variety of foods – from imports to local cheeses and freshly caught fish. 

We roamed the aisles trying samples and placing into our buggy things that we just had to try – sugary almond wisps, creamy goat cheese with Provincial herbs, etc. It’s always so much fun to shop for groceries in a new town!

When we finally had seen it all, we moved on down the road towards Lorgues again…and stopped at a patisserie that had homemade sugary orange, pear, raspberry, and grape candies.  It happened to be right next to La Table Du Moulin, a charming little restaurant with high beamed ceilings and the old walls of a wine cellar.

We made a reservation for eight p.m. and continued meandering up the street to the Collégiale Saint Martin, an early eighteenth century cathedral where we planned to celebrate Easter the next morning. 

Better late than never, so they say.  We arrived back at La Table Du Moulin about fifteen minutes late for our reservation, but the upbeat waitress was gracious and showed us to our table.  Intriguing brick archways, grinding wheels, and antique wine making paraphernalia coupled with blue table cloths with cream brocade runners, flowing curtains, and paintings of Provence presented a relaxing, classy atmosphere.

Menu de Jour (23€):

Soufflé aux champignons, croustillant de parmesan, fondue de mozzarella.
Arugula and mixed green salad drizzled with Balsamic vinaigrette, topped with carrot slivers.  Served alongside a mushroom soufflé with melted mozzarella and a handcrafted parmesan chip.

Dos de loup rôli en écailles d’articharts, sa gelée celery et romarin.
Sea bass, boned and adorned with skin and sliced artichoke hearts, sprinkled with thyme and rosemary.

Mini-Brochettes de crêpes suzettes aux poires.
A candied orange slice, poached pear, and strawberry slivers, with skewered chocolate crepes.

Additional Entrée:
Saint Jacques Poêlées sa Julienne endwes et pommes, coulis de betteraves anise.
Baked apples and tender fresh scallops in a pool of savory blackberry sauce.

Tender and steaming, the miniature muffin-shaped soufflé was an aromatic beginning to a appetizing meal. The creamy texture of the drizzled mozzarella added a punch to the softer flavor of the mushroom, further enlivened by the bitter acidity of the arugula and vinaigrette.  A simple French baguette was served with the appetizer.

The sea bass was a bit of a challenge to eat with panache due to its bony nature; the fish was pleasant, although not particularly flavorful.  The artichoke hearts added depth to the seafood, along with the elusive essence of thyme and rosemary.

Succulent, flavorful, and perfectly seared, the sea scallops rested in a pool of savory blackberry sauce, interspersed by a flowered fan of baked apples.  The luscious dish disappeared with much haste.

Cappuccinos were unheard of at La Table Du Moulin, but a small coffee and an artistic masterpiece for dessert were the perfect denouement to a delightful evening.  Four tiny skewers of crêpes suzette drizzled with strawberry coulee were framed by a circular slice of candied orange with a hint of marmalade; a poached pear, sliced and sans skin, leaving the stem to give the pear charisma; and bright red ripened strawberry slivers to give another bright hint of color, all creatively plated on a rectangular piece of ebony slate.

Problems with French credit card machines marred the otherwise soothing dining experience, but did not leave a blight upon our evening.  La Table Du Moulin, a pleasant retreat in a charming village, is no gastronomical masterpiece, but definitely a satisfying venture.

Restaurant Reviewed:
La Table Du Moulin
5 Rue de Climénes
83510 Lorgues
Tél: 04 94 73 98 87

Comments

TNichols said…
Wonderful wording Doll !!

I could just taste your meal as you described it. I'll have to remember your wording the next time your Mom cooks a great meal and tell her it was a "gastronomical masterpiece".

:-)

Dad