The search for ultimate sandwich of lepinja bread with pršut and kajmak led us around the center of Belgrade for two hours in the drizzle and muck. A hole in the wall sandwich shop, not too far from our hostel, was a particular favorite of our receptionist. Consulting the map, we headed in one direction, then another, and then again, yet another, trying to match the Cyrillic street names on the map with those on the buildings. After numerous stops for directions (thankfully, we are ladies, which made a possible four hour trek into two), we finally arrived at our destination.
A little shop selling meats and cheeses and made sandwiches in the back, was a beloved town secret for many. We mingled among the locals, waiting for our chance to pass the sticky note our receptionist had written for us to the shop keepers. When the sandwiches were in our hot little fingers, we quickly searched for an alcove where we might hide from the rain and munch on our lepinja sandwiches.
The warm toasted bread, similar to homemade pita, melted the kajmak, a creamy Balkan cheese reminiscent of butter, and provided a velvety home for the salty prosciutto. Lepinja sa kajmakom i pršuta filled our tummies and sustained our hike to the nearest coffee shop, where we plopped onto couches and rested our tired, drenched feet and looked forward to meeting my friend Vladimir.
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